Anonymous said: wow i dont think i read far back enough into the blog to see your discussions, i tried to search it on google to see commentaries and there were very few so i assumed that you haven't talked about. so sorry. how do i find the post you are talking about i would love to read it. there are so many other designers though who do yellow face but they aren't as popular so i cant remember their names and people dont talk about them. maybe i should make a list....
sorry, i meant i’ve talked about that a lot in my academic life, not on this blog specifically.
orientalism has been a mainstay of western fashion for centuries, but some notable modern examples i can think of include (not all examples of yellowface, but all related to orientalism in some way):
- anna dello russo (editor of vogue japan) and crystal renn drew criticism for a yellowface fashion spread
- galliano repeatedly draws from asian and other world dress
- martin margiela’s ”tabi” boots, inspired by japanese footwear
- karl lagerfeld is a repeat offender. the chanel “paris-shanghai: a fantasy” collection (held in shanghai ofc) and short film notoriously received a lot of bad press for explicitly using yellowface (he cast freja beha erichsen and baptiste giabiconi as chinese characters). he’s done a series of these “international” collections, including paris-moscow, paris-bombay, and paris-byzantium. he also held a runway show that took place on the great wall for fendi.
- marc jacobs’s s/s 2011 for louis vuitton, which was also critically panned for its costumey use of chinese dress
- alexander mcqueen s/s 2005, which was imagined as a chess match between great britain and japan (also cast black models in american football gear to represent the “kings” so take that as you will). (references military history between great britain and japan)
- yves st. laurent was pretty notorious for incorporating orientalism and exoticism into his work, such as his famous “russian" and "african" collections. (also had a safari collection, glorifying european imperialism in africa.)
for further reading:
- the costume institute had an exhibit several years ago about orientalism in fashion; you can read about it here or in the catalogue (free download on the met website here).
- valerie steele has an edited volume about chinese dress that includes essays on chinoiserie here (although honestly it’s not that great at actually criticizing orientalism).
- there’s also a book by adam geczy about orientalism in fashion but i haven’t read it so i don’t know how good it is.
- minh-ha t. pham and mimi thi nguyen have written extensively about this topic as well.
- thuy linh tu’s book the beautiful generation includes a chapter about orientalism in western fashion